The last was tasty if a bit chewy (as skirt steak tends to be). The roster of entrees is well thought out, with more than half of them under $20 three in that category that delivered were grilled Scottish salmon served atop ratatouille with a crunchy potato pancake and a spicy mustard sauce, a grilled Berkshire pork chop in a sherry vinegar sauce spiked with cherry peppers and paired with roast fingerling potatoes, and grilled skirt steak. The rest of the décor includes large framed mirrors, wall displays of wrought iron and flickering votive candles and framed menus from 1939 from the Manhattan Brass Rail.ĭespite the attention-getting bar and the bargain prices, it is the food that deserves top billing. The history of the striking bar, with its marble columns, mirrors and brass trim, is recounted on the back of the menu. It dates from the late 1880s, when it graced a Brass Rail Restaurant on Seventh Avenue in Manhattan. (In the interim, from mid-2007 to mid-2008, he was the opening chef at Nisen Sushi in Woodbury, which I gave a rating of excellent in January 2008.)Ī gorgeous antique bar is at the heart of the Brass Rail. Two years later he sold it, but he bought it back after a fire in March 2008, renovated the space and opened the Brass Rail in November. He earned his culinary stripes at Panama Hatties in Huntington Station, where he worked from 1996 to 2005, later opening an upscale restaurant called Heirloom at this Locust Valley location. The owner of the Brass Rail is Kent Monkan, one of the Island’s best chefs. Speaking of nostalgia, there are pigs in the blanket (called cocktail franks here), also $5 these have been kicked up a notch by the use of puff pastry. Another hit from that $5 menu is the oxtail sloppy Joe, a flavor-packed nostalgic heartwarmer. And a glance at the prices had me humming “Happy Days Are Here Again,” that anthem from Depression days.Īn appetizer of five tasty, tender barbecued ribs, $5 on the bar menu (available in the restaurant as well), epitomizes the fare and the bargains. There were so many tempting dishes, it was hard to choose among them. I FELT like a kid in a candy store at the Brass Rail in Locust Valley.
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